Written by Ryan St.Onge / Translated by: 張睿璇

I can relax at home and for a lot less money than it takes to fly to Tahiti or Fiji or the Seychelles. I want to DO something. Accomplish something. Get my hands dirty.

I crave adventure. Long hiking trips, cycle touring. Canoe trips into vast wildernesses. The longer and more difficult the trip sounds, the better. Sure, there is the toll that is inflicted on my body, but the peace of mind that what adventure offers is worth any and all pain. I love to lie down in the evening with sore muscles and an overpowering sense of calm. It’s a feeling that no resort or beach anywhere in the world can duplicate.

But I know that such vacations are not everyone’s idea of fun, and if you are one of those people and you are still reading this, please bear with me for a few more paragraphs. You might be pleasantly surprised.

In recent years, the concept of “soft travel” has come to the fore as an interesting alternative to adventure travel. If you’ve always been curious about taking a long bike trip or hiking trip but didn’t like the idea of a week of sleeping outdoors and living without showers, then soft traveling might be just the thing for you.

Although soft travel is not a new concept, it is one that has been gaining in popularity in the past few years. As the “go-hard-or-go-home” crowd begins to age and their bones begin to creak with arthritic world-weariness, many have turned to soft travel in an effort to indulge in their past adventures without living the austere lifestyle of a seasoned mountain climber. Who really wants to sleep on the ground after cycling 100km, anyway?

Conversely, many tourists weaned on the ubiquitous bus travel have, in recent years, craved something more independent. Something more flexible than being carted on and off busses for two weeks while a guide tells them their next destination, no questions asked.

In a nutshell, soft travel is the best of both worlds. It combines the daily activity of adventure travel, be it cycling, hiking, canoeing or what have you, with the pampering you get from luxury accommodations. Work all day, indulge all night.

Recently, I was given the opportunity to try soft travel. I was in dire need of a vacation and I wanted nothing better than to get on my bike and travel down Highway 11 on the coast to Taitung for a three-day weekend of riding. The plan was to cycle all day and stay in luxury accommodations at night.

Day 1 – Hualien to Jichi

We headed out from Hualien early on a Friday morning and began making our way south. Although Jichi Beach is only 30km south of Hualien, this stretch is actually the most difficult part of the entire trip. There are two daunting climbs that might prove difficult for inexperienced riders. These climbs make Jichi an ideal choice for your first day’s destination. Besides,  Jichi is worth exploration.

I recommend Hou Hu Bed & Breakfast at Jichi Beach, just off the road and into the mountains. This sprawling bed and breakfast offers stunning vistas of the beach and is one of the most luxurious spots on the east coast. Lodges back onto private decks built over rice paddies and vast expanses of grass in which to explore. Hou Hu is a wonderous place to rest your legs after a day of riding.

Day 2: Jichi to Jhuhu

After a hearty breakfast and a cup of coffee or three it’s back on the road, heading south toward Taitung. The road immediately south of Jichi is a treat. Rolling hills and well-paved roads make for some of the most spectacular cycling in Taiwan. And although you cross from Hualien to Taitung counties on this stretch of ride, the entire day’s ride is less than 60km. Some highlights from Jichi to Jhuhu include Fongbin, the Tropic of Cancer and Basian Caves. All of these sites are accessible for visits given your time frame, so don’t hesitate to stop and snap some photos along the way.

Jhuhu offers a nice place to spend the night for a few reasons. First, it’s close to the Yu-Chang Highway for those looking to cross the mountains and double back to Hualien via Highway 9. Also, the Jhuhu area has some of the choicest seafood restaurants on the coast for your dining pleasure. But most importantly is Jhuhu Bed & Breakfast.

Nestled high in the coastal range, this spot is beyond beautiful. Four gorgeous villas overlook a valley plucked from storybooks. This is truly the closest one gets to “the middle of nowhere” in Taiwan, except it has running water… and personal hot springs, and virtually every amenity you could imagine. It’s as close to paradise on Earth as I have ever found in Taiwan. My only regret was that we could only stay one night.

Day 3: Jhuhu to Jhiben

I’ve done the ride to Taitung on several occasions and I have never really enjoyed the stretch from Chenggong to Taitung. This is usually because I am tired from cycling all day and I’m just in a hurry to get to my destination. If you are soft traveling, however, and you leave in the morning from Jhuhu as opposed to Hualien, this ride is actually quite pretty. Highlights include San Yuan Beach, Beinan and everyone’s favorite roadside attraction: Water Running Up.

Take some time to grab a nice lunch in Taitung town before heading south for the short ride to Jhiben. There is no shortage of places to eat in Taitung City so this is no place for recommendations. Find what you like and grab a bite.

Jhiben seems like a fitting destination for this trip due to the hot springs. After riding for three days, your muscles will thank you for a few dips into the soothing waters of a Jhiben hot spring. While there are dozens of places to stay in Jhiben, we chose Windmill Church Bed & Breakfast because it’s simply the most luxurious spot in the Taitung area. Like Jhuhu, Windmill Church is nestled up in the mountains in a converted church. This spot is the embodiment of relaxation. From the hot springs to their selection of Belgian beers, Windmill Church has thought of everything to make your stay enjoyable.

From Taitung, you can continue south through Taimali and Dawu toward Pingtung. Alternatively, you could double back to Hualien via Highway 9 or you could simply decide to pack you bike on the train and return to Hualien, Taipei, Australia or wherever you are from.

Ride safe.

Biking Information

Check the weather before you depart. Rain and wind can seriously affect your ride. Pack rain gear regardless.

Take you bike in for a tune-up before you depart. Mechanics will ensure your bike is in fine working condition so you don’t have to worry.

Bring a set of Allan keys, a couple of replacement tubes and a pump in case of an emergency.

Pack food and water. There are some lonely patches down the coast.