Written by Milo Tobin / Translated by: 文穗羅

The problem visitors often encounter when they arrive in Hualien is not where to hike but rather where to start. Hualien offers hiking alternatives for every level of hiking. From rigorous climbing through the towering peaks to easy afternoon walks up any number of river valleys that carve their way down from the central and coastal mountain ranges. And Taroko National Park is just the tip of the hiking iceberg.

While long weekend hikes are grand, more often than not, we are looking for a nice day hike that gets us back to the safety of our home (or hotel) for dinner and a hot shower. In that vein, Highway 11 presents one of Hualien’s little known day hikes: The Sino-American Canal Trail.

Located in the river valley immediately south of Taroko Gorge, the trail is nestled behind the quaint little town of San Zhan. If you follow the southern gorge into the mountains, the trailhead is easy to find. Don’t be fooled into thinking it’s the entrance to a temple or somebody’s house. That staircase is indeed the trailhead and it winds up the south wall of the gorge for a few dozen meters before leveling off into a nice little hike.

Although the trail is not well-traveled, it is well-maintained but if it has recently rained it would be advisable to watch your footing and for falling rocks. Much of the trail has been carved directly out of the cliff and can be slippery in places. A safety chain has been bolted into the cliff and runs along the walls in the more precarious spots along the hike.

If you are like me, and like to bring your dog along on hikes, this one is perfect for them, provide it’s dry. There are lots of places for the dogs to explore. Keep an eye on them if the rocky stretches are wet. While the chances of a fall are minimal, dogs don’t have the luxury of opposable thumbs and, therefore, cannot use the safety chain if things get a little slippery.

The trail’s seclusion has its advantages. On a recent trip up the trail we got a long look at a troupe of Formosan Rock Macaque (Macaca cyclopis). Unlike the busier Taroko Gorge, these shy creatures can be easily spotted in San Jian Gorge. If you come across a troupe of macaques, please respect their space and let them know you are not a threat by keeping your distance. Do not feed the macaques.

Other wildlife in the area includes a variety of birds, lizards, butterflies and a wide assortment of other insects. Depending on the season, it’s not uncommon to encounter snakes in this area. In the event of a snake encounter, simply give the animal some space while it moves to safety. Remember that snakes aren’t inclined to bite unless frightened. Give snakes a wide berth.

What I like most of all about this trail is its versatility. You can follow the trail up into the mountains but make the loop back tracing the river (if the water level isn’t dangerously high, that is). If you make the decision to trace the river, bear in mind that it involves a fair amount of climbing over large boulders and might not be easy for inexperienced hikers, children or pets.

The end of the trail is the head of the canal: a large sluice that collects water at a bend in the San Zhan River. If you were to continue into the mountains from there it would require a swim across the river. We have not ventured that far as of yet, but it’s on the agenda (on a hot sunny day with no rain in the forecast, of course).

The entire hike is less than 5km round-trip, so it will give you plenty of time to explore San Zhan village and the surrounding area. If the tourist hordes in Taroko Gorge are getting you down about nature, this hike is perfect.